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You may have heard of Domaine de l’Hortus. It’s a Languedoc estate of world renown, the standard bearers of the relatively new Pic Saint Loup AOC, with its even newer, romantically named IGP Saint Guilhem le Désert. Next door is the Coteaux du Pic winery, where Cécilia Galaret weaves her winemaking magic with lush, texured reds and bright whites. Many use native varieties, but for Comte Guillaume she chose pure, ripe Merlot. It’s a dark fruit style, with hints of wild herbs and spice, with a freshness and elegance, thanks to the cooling sea breeze. All fruit and no oak, it’s an easy going red, but nicely structured with a bite to keep you reaching for more. Enjoy on its own, or at a picnic, with chicken or veggie kebabs and spiced couscous.