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If you’re a fan of the sort of reds you can only get from ancient, ultra sunny vineyards, then chances are you’ll love Il Brutto. So low yielding and unprofitable were these heirloom Negroamaro and Primitivo vines that the growers in Puglia were planning to rip them out. Tony Laithwaite stepped in and offered to make it worth their while to carry on tending them. He also engaged his old friend Angelo Maci from the nearby award winning Cantine Due Palme winery to turn the grapes into a magnificent red. The vines’ twisted trunks may be ugly (‘brutto’) to outsiders but they’re things of beauty to those in the know. Serve this treasured red with casseroled lamb shanks or, if feeling inspired, spit roasted suckling pig. It’s so worth it!