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Bulgarian reds were top of the pops in the 1970s. Quality was good and the value unmatched. Now, thanks to privatisation of the vineyards and massive European investment, the quality is nothing short of astounding. This superb wine from the Bessa Valley Winery is a joint venture involving the owner of Canon La Gaffelière in Saint Emilion, Count Stephan von Neipperg, and financier Dr Karl-Heinz Hauptmann. Ex-Bordeaux winemaker Marc Dworkin has treated this wine like a cru classé claret, vinifying the different grapes separately and ageing in top quality barriques. Merlot and Petit Verdot are joined by Syrah for a delicious point of difference. A claret of this quality sells for over $60. Decant and enjoy with roast lamb or pan-fried duck.