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The village of Sancerre in the central Loire has been Sauvignon Blanc’s spiritual home for centuries. Here, the cool climate and gentle limestone hills bring out an intensity of aroma and raciness of flavour in the grape that is unmatched anywhere else. “Gun-flint – the smell of sparks when flint strikes metal – is one way to characterise it” says Hugh Johnson. Plus, he adds, “the smell and taste of fresh blackcurrants, leaves and all” (Wine Companion). The finest examples come typically from small, independent growers like Reverdy – this tiny, seven hectare estate has won a disproportionate number of awards in recent years. Asparagus, gooseberry and mineral character make this aromatic 2018 a great match for pan-fried fish or shellfish.