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Next door to Rioja, Navarra has always been less traditional. Its winemakers were some of the first to break rank and grow imposter grapes. This mellow 2017, crafted from wine usually destined for their flagship Reserva Especial, is made by Milagros Rodriguez. She is chief winemaker at the 65-year-old Señoria de Sarria, an estate highly regarded throughout the world. It lies in Puente La Reina, where two trails on the historic Camino de Santiago cross. The estate was established in 1953, but major investment in 2001 heralded in a new era of quality. Cabernet Sauvignon with old-vine Graciano, aged two years in barrel, this is a magnificent, mellow red, packed with dark fruits and sweet spice. Superb with grilled meats or rice dishes.