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This is a complex, rich, long-flavoured Gran Reserva Rioja from the Chavarri family, whose cellar has been up and running since 1882. In charge today is Ruth Chavarri Muro, the fifth generation of her family to take the helm. The estate’s vineyards are planted at 650 metres, on excellent limestone-rich soils. Averaging 50 to 60 years old, they produce tiny amounts of really concentrated fruit – all meticulously hand picked and sorted. Aged in small French oak barriques, all new for six months and older for the next 18, this fine Gran Reserva – only made in the best years – blends cedar and liquorice with cherry and plum with a touch of mocha on the finish. Wonderfully silky and mellow, it’s spot on with chicken, lamb or an aubergine bake.